Tuesday, June 8, 2010

seattletimes.com: Seattle yards become farms: Business grows from the ground up

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Seattle yards become farms: Business grows from the ground up

Edible gardening and urban farms are thriving throughout Seattle, but the idea of urban farming for profit is another matter. As the once-common practice returns to cities across the country, at least two efforts in Seattle â€" Harvest Collective and Magic Bean Farm â€" aim to show that it can be done.


http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2012049158_urbanfarms07m.html


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Wednesday, May 5, 2010

NYTimes.com: Gardens That Grow on Walls

The New York Times E-mail This
This page was sent to you by:  nobleve@yahoo.com

HOME & GARDEN   | May 06, 2010
Gardens That Grow on Walls
By KRISTINA SHEVORY
Vertical gardens, or living walls, once experimental, are gaining popularity through kits and purpose-made equipment.

Just Wright - Starring Queen Latifah, Common, Paula Patton, Phylicia Rashad, & Pam Grier.
In Theaters May 14
Click here to view trailer


 

Saturday, April 3, 2010

finish links

http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/Items/7258.aspx

Pruning Apple Trees

Figure 3. Clothes pins are used to hold young branches at desired branched angles.

Most Ohio soils, however, are not well-drained. They usually consist of silt and clay particles, and drainage is often less than desirable. In soils that drain poorly, plants should be planted somewhat higher than they were in the nursery. More air needs to reach the root system when soils drain poorly. In these soil conditions, plants can be placed from 2 to 4 inches higher than they were during their growth in the nursery.

The width of the planting hole should be at least two or three times the diameter of the root ball. After placing the container-grown tree in the planting hole, back fill with soil. Apply water at the rate of two to three gallons per tree every two to three weeks. Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep. Refer to Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet HYG-1014-97 Preparation and Planting of Landscape Plants, for more information.

Plant dwarf trees about 8 feet apart in the row and allow 14 feet between rows. Semi-dwarf trees should be spaced 10 feet apart in the row with 16 feet between rows.

How Do I Prune and Train Young Apple Trees?

Bare-root whips need to be pruned and trained so that they will develop into properly shaped trees. Container-grown apple trees are normally two- to three-year-old trees. These trees need lime spreading and light pruning.

Bare-root trees should be cut or "headed" back to 24 inches to 28 inches above ground at planting. All broken or damaged limbs should be removed. This procedure allows branches to form at desired heights, improves the strength of the tree, and provides a balance between the top and roots.



As the branches reach 4 to 6 inches in length, spring-loaded clothes pins can be used to form proper crotch angles (Figure 3.) These clothes pins should be removed at the end of the first season. Branches that begin to grow at 18 inches or lower can be cut off during the summer.


After one and two years of growth, all lateral branches below 18 inches or below the first lateral are removed. Remove limbs that have narrow crotch angles (less that 45 degrees).

Apple trees are trained to the central-leader system which will allow three to four groups of four branches to develop for a standard-sized tree. The central leader is cut in March at 18 inches to 24 inches above the last group of limbs to ensure the development of more limbs (Figure 4).


Figure 4. A one-year-old apple tree with lateral branches and central leader (CL).


A two- or three-year-old apple tree needs limb spreading to achieve a tree that is wide at the bottom and tapers to a point as shown in Figure 5.

Figure 5. A two-year-old apple tree with spreaders.


During the third and fourth years, remove all unwanted branches from central leaders and continue to spread limbs as necessary. The central leader will eventually be cut back into second-year wood, to bring the central leader into balance with the rest of the tree. Maintain a central leader and pyramidal form on into maturity. Never allow an upper tier to shade out or outgrow lower limbs.

UC Davis on early shaping/pruning of fruit trees

http://cekern.ucdavis.edu/Master_Gardener/Planting_and_Early_Care_of_Deciduous_Fruit_Trees.htm

Unlike shade trees, deciduous fruit trees should be pruned every year before bud swell for optimum growth and yield. Pruning need not be complicated, but fruit trees are less forgiving than most shade tree species, and with incorrect pruning the yield of fruit will be reduced or eliminated, and the life of the tree will be shortened.








There are three pruning phases in the life of a deciduous fruit tree. The first occurs at planting, when the first cut should be made to foster development of a vase-shaped structure, since an open-center form is preferred for almost all deciduous fruit species on the San Joaquin Valley floor. After a bareroot tree is planted, the trunk should be headed at 24-32 inches above the soil surface. This cut may be emotionally difficult to make, because it may seem $10 of a $15 tree has been summarily removed. In reality, this most-important cut serves to establish low origination points of structural branches, which will allow most pruning, harvesting, and pest management to be performed without a ladder during the life of the tree. When we purchase a tree at the nursery, we are paying for a well-developed root system and the top (scion) variety. The upper structure of the tree may induce purchase by the buyer, but should be removed upon planting. Trees in agricultural fields need higher heads for equipment passage, but at home a low head greatly facilitates tree care.







The second phase of pruning serves to establish structure, and this phase begins the year following establishment. The low heading cut will result in several branches growing outward at various directions and angles, and three or four strong, upwardly growing branches spaced at intervals around the trunk should be selected as scaffolds. Additional branches can be removed. Pruning the next few years emphasizes structural development, including a well-spaced system of scaffolds and laterals.







The third phase of pruning begins with the onset of maturity, which is 5 - 7 years for most fruit trees. At this stage, the tree should be pruned for fruit production, with consideration of the location of fruiting wood. Pruning at this stage serves to invigorate and direct growth of the tree, with a goal of keeping it forever young; that is, annually producing new fruiting wood. Deciduous fruits differ greatly in the amount and location of wood which should be removed. Of trees often found in home orchards, peaches should be pruned the most severely and cherries the least. A detailed discussion is beyond the scope of this article, but principal determinants for pruning are the location and amount of fruiting wood. For example, peaches bear fruit on terminal wood of the previous season, so well-spaced lateral shoots with flower buds are retained. For peaches, it is common to thin (remove) half to two-thirds of the laterals, and to head (shorten) remaining fruiting wood. Apricots, plums and sweet cherries bear fruit laterally on spurs, which live three, five, and ten years, respectively. Therefore, up to 1/3 of the wood may be removed in mature apricots, about 1/5 of the wood in plums, and only light annual pruning is needed for sweet cherries.

Basics on Garden Insects

http://eartheasy.com/grow_nat_pest_cntrl.htm

Earth Easy Tips for Growing Fruit Trees

Tips for growing productive fruit trees


• Be careful taking your new tree home - trees can die of shock. Keep root ball damp and shaded from sun.

• Always keep graft line clear of debris and above ground. If the graft line goes below ground the tree may revert to its root stock and give the wrong fruit - like crab apples!

• Thin the fruit. If the size of the fruit produced from your tree is below expectations, it may be due to an over-abundance of fruit on the tree. The tree has only so much energy to use to produce fruit, so thinning (removing some of the fruit) is essential to produce large fruit in some species, such as peach and apple. For best results, thin fruit trees early in the season, when the fruit is still quite small.


more at: http://eartheasy.com/grow_fruit_tree.htm

Great Gardening Tips

EVERYONE uses his illustration on how to plant fruit trees!

Robert Kourik's main website.  But his blog is even better with more tips, illustrations - he is a great gardening teacher!

Growing Fruit Trees Close together

 
 

Friday, February 12, 2010

www.treesaregood.com

Free Soil Test!

King County residents can take advantage of a free soil test offered by the King Conservation
District. Residents can have up to five soil samples tested for “the big three” nutrients
(NPK: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), pH, and a list of micronutrients. The lab will
send you recommendations specific to your soil and plant needs.

More information about this program, where and how to take samples can be found
at www.kingcd.org/pub_soil_soilsam.htm.  If you have questions, contact Jason Mirro at
the King Conservation District at jason.mirro@kingcd.org or (425) 282-1905.

Tilth has great resources - both classes and online links

Resources: Online Info

In Seattle Tilth's Resources section, you can learn more about chickens, compost and sustainable landscapes. There's also a monthly garden almanac, back issues of our newsletter Way to Grow, and background on Seattle's local food system.

If you'd like to read up on your favorite organic gardening topic or learn something new, you've come to the right place! 

Select from the categories listed below or use the search function at the top of the page to get more specific information.
Garden Almanac
Find out what's happening in Seattle gardens this month.
Compost
Turn your grass clippings, food scraps, dried leaves and other organic matter to make compost.
City Chickens
Find out why so many people are raising chickens in the city, and what it takes.
Sustainable Landscapes
Learn tips and techniques for managing your yard and garden in the healthiest way for your family and the environment.
Our Local Food System
Learn about the people and resources involved in creating a strong localized food system that provides access to fresh, healthy food.

Cascadian Edible Landscapes - www.eatyouryard.com

This is a cute company that doesn't seem to be full time -  they had some great links and lists of plant suggestions

LINKS:

These are some of our favorite people and organizations. Feel free to email us if you want to be linked!
Home Grown Nutrition specializes in helping you create personalized eating and healthy living goals that incorporate local and seasonal foods. Her unique approach combines nutrition counseling with cooking instruction to help you learn how to find, prepare and even grow healthy seasonal foods that fit your lifestyle.
Seattle Tilth (Garden Hotline) - Seattle Tilth provides Urban Garden Education; workshops, a children’s garden-program, and now 3 plant sales throughout the year, which Cascadian Edible Landscapes attends.
WSU Master Gardeners.
Garden-Raised Bounty-Olympia, WA is a grassroots non-profit organization dedicated to nourishing a strong community by empowering people and growing good food in Thurston & Mason counties in Washington State.
Foodlink Seattle was founded to link sources of fresh produce with local food banks. Associated with Pike Place Market Foundation, Foodlink has been operating every summer for over 14 years. In our 2007 season, nearly 50,000 pound of food was donated to local food banks providing thousands of Seattle residents with good, nutritious, life-giving food.
DigginFood--a community table that serves up gardening and cooking inspiration for people who like real food.
National Center for Home Food Preservation is your source for current research-based recommendations for most methods of home food preservation.
Fat of the Land Blog Adventures of a (mostly) NW based forager, who finds edible bounties everywhere.
Conscious Choice Magazine Magazine and website aimed at covering natural health, food, personal growth, fitness/yoga, spirituality, environment, social good, sustainable business, green living and much more.
Community Alliance for Global JusticeFood Justice Project currently developing an overarching analysis for CAGJ of the global food economy, as well as strategizing about what our outcomes should be for this organizing. Building a coherent analysis is the first step in providing the base for building a campaign, or multiple campaigns, that remain committed to the goal of strengthening local economies everywhere.
Learn about Medicinal Herbs at this site.
City of Seattle’s Neighborhood Matching Fund Grants for community groups to do neighborhood improvements, which could include EDIBLE LANDSCAPING!
Uprising Seeds is a local (Bellingham, WA) offers organic heirloom and open pollinated seeds. (360) 201-0468
Books:
Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades by Steve Solomon, Food Not Lawns by Heather Coburn Flores, How to Grow More Vegetables on Less Land by John Jeavons, Omnivores Dilemma by Michael Pollan, You can Farm by Joel Salatin
Seattle; Village Harvest-Community Fruit Harvest Projects:
Drip Works: Irrigation
Dig the Dirt a (NW run) social gardening site with one of the most user friendly garden databases in the world. 


PLANT SUGGESTIONS:

These are Perrenials-Plant once

Fruit Trees: Apples, (Japanese and European) Pears, Plums, Cherries, Hardy and Fuzzy Kiwi (vines), Peaches,
(with luck), several nut varieties. See raintreenusery.com for larger list.
Shrubs: Also, Elderberries, Blueberries, Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, as well as many
Edible Natives: salmon berries, huckleberries, wintergreen, etc–>See Burntridge Nursery for complete list

These are Annual Crops (plant yearly)

that like it warmer: Tomatoes, Basil, Eggplant, Peppers, Amaranth (a very cool edible flower), Celery, and beans, corn, and the Cucurbits Family: Cucumbers, Summer Squash (includes Zuchinni), Winter Squash like Delicata, Acorn, and Pumpkins.
Cold Weather Lovers:
Brassicas: Many varieties of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kales, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Kohlrabi
Greens: Head and Loose-LeafLettuce, Spinach, Swiss chard, Arugula, Mustard, Mache (aka Corn Salad), Belgian Endive
Roots: Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Rutabagas, Turnips, Parsnips, and Celeriac (try it!)
Potatoes
Alliums:Garlic,Shallots, Onions, Scallions, Chives
Herbs: Thymes, Rosemary, Mints, Sages, Chives, Marjoram, Fennel, Lavender, Angelica, Chamomile, Echinacea angustifolia

Crops with Very High Aesthetic (if you ask me) Value: Artichoke (P), Asparagus (P), Peas, Jasmine, Honeysuckle, blueberries.
Edible Flowers: Borage, Nasturtium, Sunflower, Honeysuckle, lavender, and many many more

Urban Farm Hub

Urban Farm Hub is a news and information source for urban agriculture and food policy in the Puget Sound Region. The founders, Diana Vergis Vinh and Ashley DeForest, believe that a cultural food revolution begins with an open exchange of information and ideas. From national food policy news to urban farming resources to a local events calendar, Urban Farm Hub brings it all together in one place.

The link has an AMAZING list of resources from policy issues to farming tips to processing and cooking tips.

Edible Perennials Wish List

See list from class - ideas that stand out:

  • Plums (stagger out for even harvesting)
  • Asian Pears (very disease/pest free)
  • Russet Apples
  • Figs
  • Medlar
  • Pakistan Mulberry
  • Frost or Q1-8 Peaches
  • Fruiting Pineapple Quince (big waxy tropical leaves, big blossoms)
  • Buartnut (combines taste of butternut with easy to open heart nut)
  • Korean Stone Pine (get pine nuts and also will tolerate partial sun)
  • Bay Laurel will also do okay in partial light
  • Garlic Chives - you can eat every part
  • Lovage as a celery substitute
  • Salad Burnet tastes like cucumber
  • Sweet Cicely tastes like licorice
  • Winter Savory - honey bees love it, will be there all winter
  • Columnar Apples
  • Kiwi Vines - get a trellis because they can get big
  • Use perennial clover and alfalfa as cover crops and between plants to feed soil

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Divide Perennials for Healthier Plants

from tilth almanac

Four simple steps to dividing a perennial vegetable like artichokes or rhubarb.
Perennial vegetables that bloom in late spring, summer or fall - like artichokes or rhubarb - can be safely divided in February.
The center of many older perennials turns woody and unproductive, which results in a doughnut effect of healthy plant material surrounding a dead center.
Follow these four steps for a healthy division:
  1. Take the entire plant out of the soil.
  2. Separate parts of the crown by prying it apart with two garden forks, or cutting the crown into smaller pieces iwth a sharp knife or machete.
  3. Discard the old woody center and keep the outside new growth for future plants.
  4. Before replanting, renew the soil where you are going to plant by forking in compost and soil amendments.
If you end up with more plant parts than you can use, pot them up to share with friends.